Sleeping with the Barony

• Share

The Vikings founded the Scottish stronghold of Skibo in the 9th century, but it is hard to know what they would make of it today. After fighting off the likes of Madonna (who got married in 2000 in the castle that was built on the original Viking site) and Robbie Williams (who celebrated his birthday there in March of this year), the intrepid Norsemen would probably not recognize their 1,000-year-old home. Where once there were serfs, there are now staff, and a golf course stands on former grazing land. Such is the world of 21st century castles.

From Scotland to southern England, castles have always been among Britain 's most popular tourist attractions. They're a top lure in Ireland as well. But, travelers, bored with chain motels and overpriced bed-and-breakfasts, are finding the idea of sleeping in a historical monument attractive indeed. "People are tired of country hotels. They want a bit more personality," says Roger Masterson, proprietor of accommodation agency Celtic Castles.

Eager to oblige them, castle owners throughout Britain and Ireland have been damp-proofing dungeons and touching up turrets, knowing that history sells — along with billable extras such as spa treatments, banquets and hunting lessons. And it's not just pop stars and other celebrities who can afford to swap blue jeans for the blue-blood life. If you and 11 friends can split the minimum $4,565 charge (about $380 each), then the Irish castle of Lismore is yours for the night. It comes with a butler, a banqueting hall seating 75, a game room and a vintage collection of Vogue magazines that once belonged to Fred Astaire's sister. tel: (353-58) 54424; www.lismorecastle.com

Castle stays are also ideal for old-fashioned romancing. Just think of all those roaring fireplaces and Jacobean four-poster beds. "I have had so many people ask me to choose a castle for them because they want to propose to their partners," says Antony Sherlock of Scotts Castle Holidays. Dalhousie Castle, near Edinburgh , has even trained its resident falcons to deliver engagement rings to unsuspecting partners as they picnic in the gorgeous grounds. Should your beloved's answer be yes, you can exchange vows in the castle's very own candlelit chapel without further ado. Double rooms cost from $315 a night. tel: (44-1875) 820153; www.dalhousiecastle.co.uk

If all this fires your enthusiasm, a word of advice: the best experiences tend to be at castles still in private hands. Some are even run by descendants of the original owners. About one-and-a-half hours' drive from Glasgow , on the shores of Loch Fyne, is Castle Lachlan. When you check in, it's often Euan MacLachlan, the clan chief himself, who gives you the room key along with lessons in local lore. If that doesn't beat watching the History Channel in your motel room, what does? A three-night hire of the castle costs around $2,900. tel: (44-1369) 860669; www.castle-lachlan.co.uk