Magic Carpet Ride

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Were it not for its history of conflict, Afghanistan might be best known for its gorgeous rugs, handwoven by nomadic tribes scattered across the country. In recent times, improved roads and increased security have made it easier for intrepid traders to bring these rich prizes of Afghan culture to less remote markets — their warm hues and intricate tribal patterns are showing up in carpet showrooms from Sydney to San Francisco. Unfortunately, clever imitations are turning up, too. So how does a novice buyer spot the fakes? We asked two experts — third-generation carpet trader Abdul Tawab and his father, Hajji Sufi Abdul Wahid — for advice. The pair hail from Herat, the center of Afghanistan's carpet business, but moved to the Pakistani capital Islamabad 20 years ago, after fleeing the Afghan-Soviet war. There, Wahid set up the family shop, Herat Carpets, and today father and son stock some of the finest Afghan rugs available.

Authentic antique Afghan carpets are increasingly hard to find, says Wahid, and cost many thousands of dollars. A decent alternative is a high-quality 30- to 40-year-old carpet that, though affordable, is also likely to increase in value (and beauty) with age. But there are rules you should follow for selecting good-quality wool carpets, regardless of vintage. True tribal carpets are handwoven, says Tawab, so no two are ever alike. Older carpets have muted tones, and only very rarely incorporate more than five colors. These colors should be distinct, not muddied (unscrupulous dealers sometimes soak new carpets in tea or other chemical treatments to make them look older). And make sure the colors haven't run into the carpet fringe — a sure sign of chemical dyes and modern manufacture.

Next, get down on your knees and scrape a 4-cm patch of carpet with your fingernails about a dozen times. A small pile of fluff indicates poor-quality wool and a limited life-span. Then briskly rub a section of the rug with the flat of your hand. The palm should come up shiny — lightly greased from the wool's natural lanolin and a good indication of how well the carpet will age. "Do this in front of the shopkeeper," says Tawab, "and he will start bringing out his best pieces."

Finally, look at the carpet as something you're going to be living with for a long time. Study it in different lighting conditions — take it outside and see how the sun changes its colors, or try out the carpet at home for a few days, which most shops will allow. If they don't, then sleep on the decision and come back the next day. "You are going to have this carpet for the rest of your life," says Tawab. "You shouldn't buy if you are not in love." Or if you're in any doubt about its authenticity.