Raising Riesling

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Johannes Leitz of the Josef Leitz Winery is one of the superstars of Germany's Rheingau wine region. Based in Rüdesheim, a charming town of 10,000, Leitz is known for his complex, naturally made wines.

According to him, the secret of German Riesling is the soil's quartz and slate. Over time, the minerals give the wines their distinctive flavors of rosewater, litchi and apricot. Heinrich Breuer of Georg Breuer Winery also makes outstanding wines the natural way. He eschews temperature control because this technique promotes fruitier wines: "It's as if your children were brought up with no fresh air." His wines — even his Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) — are exciting. Besides having a terrific wineshop, Breuer also offers the town's best digs.

The Rüdesheimer Schloss is an 18th century hotel in the middle of the oldest part of town and features excellent cuisine and a first-rate wine list. The oldest vintage dates from 1704 (a mere $3,227). More reasonable was a $36 bottle of 1989 Breuer Riesling from the Bischofberg vineyard. Often oompah bands can be heard in the distance — a perfect German winery experience.