Letter From Baghdad: Oil But No Gasoline, Rivers But No Water

In Baghdad, you learn to savor small pleasures. When the weather turned unexpectedly cool one recent evening after a long sequence of 113°-plus days, people emptied out of their houses, braving the ever present threat of violence in order to enjoy a brief reprieve from the heat. As I stood in the front yard of TIME's Baghdad bureau, feeling the welcome breeze against my face, I asked my Iraqi colleague Harith if a sharp drop in temperature was common for the month of June. He shook his head. "This is a gift from our God," he said. "He knows many of us have no electricity, so he gives us a cool breeze so we can sleep at night."

These days, that's one of the few mercies Iraqis can hope to get. When President Bush addressed Americans last week on the state of the war in Iraq, he said that in the year since the U.S. returned sovereignty to an Iraqi government, "we have made significant progress." But here in Iraq, healthy indicators are hard to come by. Everyday life in much of the country has deteriorated in measurable ways. According to the Brookings Institution, Iraq's power system generated less electricity in June 2005 than in June 2004; crude-oil production is down, as are revenues from oil exports; the mile-long lines at gas stations are back after subsiding a few months ago. Many Baghdad neighborhoods have had little or no water supply for several weeks. It's small wonder that Harith was so grateful for the brief temperature drop: his neighborhood routinely gets less than four hours of electricity a day.

While few Iraqi residents would probably say their living conditions have improved over the past year, they do have a new object of ire: Iraqis now blame their woes as much on the government elected in January as on the Americans. That's encouraging news, a sign that Iraqis realize they can't depend on the U.S. to solve all their problems. But it's also a reminder of how far Iraq has to go. In his speech last week, Bush said that "the best way to complete the mission is to help Iraqis build a free nation that can govern itself, sustain itself and defend itself." A year after the handover of sovereignty, none of those conditions are close to being met. The government has been promising an improved power supply but has failed to deliver. It fingers insurgents for blowing up water pipelines but seems unable to repair the damage. It claims success in operations against the rebels, but their ability to strike in the heart of Baghdad is undiminished. The mood of high optimism that followed the Jan. 30 election has long since disappeared. "We have oil," says Hamid, an Iraqi who is TIME's security coordinator, "but no gasoline. We have rivers but no water. We have guns but no security."