Alpine Chic

St. Moritz, ski resort of the international glitterati, may be the last place that springs to mind when planning a summer getaway, but anyone still hoping to snatch a late break will find it as sumptuous in summer as it is in ski season. Blessed with majestic views over the lush Alpine slopes of Switzerland's Upper Engadine valley, St. Moritz is thoroughly civilized: yachting and water sports on crystal-blue lakes; hiking in the dry, sparkling champagne climate; long cycle rides or drives along winding mountain roads. "People don't want to bake on the beach the whole time," says Rahal Bigger-Morf of St. Moritz's landmark Badrutt's Palace hotel (tel: [41-81] 837 1000; www.badruttspalace.com).

The tiny Swiss village owes a lot to Johannes Badrutt. Originally a summer retreat, St. Moritz's winter potential was only realized in 1864, when Badrutt, owner of a small local hotel, told four disbelieving English hikers that winter was so warm people were in shirtsleeves. He bet them that if they returned for Christmas and proved him wrong he would pay all their travel expenses. If right,

they could stay as guests until spring. He won the bet — the hikers stayed, and the word spread. Skiing at St. Moritz has been a sought-after winter break ever since, and spurred the expansion of Badrutt's little hostel into what is, four generations later, the regal Badrutt's Palace, the most exclusive, luxurious hotel in town. Past clientele include Aristotle Onassis, Brigitte Bardot and Alfred Hitchcock. Luckily, for the not-so-stupendously rich, prices drop by up to 20% for the late summer season, with double rooms at $266 per night. Continuously updated over the years, the labyrinthine 200-room hotel is an eclectic mix of architectural styles, so whether your tastes are grand, chic or even rustic, Badrutt's has a suite to suit.

Guests are encouraged to engage in activities like gourmet cooking classes, backgammon championships and convertible-car rallies. That's on top of the customary golf, tennis and spa treatments. It may be one of the most stylish summer sojourns on offer, but as the English hikers discovered, best to get there before too many others catch on.