Old Wine in New Bottles

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Like hemlines and flares, wine varieties come in and out of style. One year, Chardonnay or Pinot Gris find acceptance; the next they're passé, as fickle wine drinkers move on to Riesling or Chenin Blanc. Trying to second-guess the next big variety is a favorite pastime of winemakers, especially now that the popular appetite for fresh, young wines — so characteristic of the last 10 years — has been satiated and yearns for something different. To pique the interest of drinkers, an increasingly common industry tactic is the revival of old varieties. In fact, it could be time to put down that modern, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. Here are some blasts from the past that you may soon be seeing on a shelf near you:

MALBEC This is a traditional Bordeaux varietal that long ago lost favor among French growers because of its sensitivity to frost. But the grape has taken off in the milder weather of Argentina, and single-vineyard Malbec in particular is destined for great things. Rich and intensely flavored with well-balanced fruit, acidity and tannin, it's a perfect match for game or red meat. The Finca Altamire Malbec from Achaval Ferrer is the highest-rated Argentinean wine to date. Look out for the 2001 bottling. It's big, smooth and deep red, with a brilliant purple rim and aromas of dark chocolate, ripe black cherry, hazelnuts and white pepper. The snag? Finca Altamire Malbec 2001 is so good that it's extremely hard to find, even at $80 a bottle. Send your carefully worded pleas to ventas@achaval-ferrer.com.

FRANCO-CHINESE EXOTICS China is a newcomer to the wine world, and while much of its produce has yet to make par, there are three wonderfully unusual varietals that show promise — French Wild, Rose Honey and Crystal Dry. Old records show that missionaries originally brought these vines to China's Yunnan province from France some 200 years ago (an origin confirmed by dna testing) — and it's believed that they may be extinct in the home country itself. So far, Chinese winemakers have obtained best results with French Wild (try it with salty hams, like Parma ham or pancetta), which can be acquired for less than $35 a bottle. For more information, visit www.yunnanhong.com.

INCROCIO MAZONI Some winemakers are hoping to cover their bases by launching hybrids of already-popular varieties. These aren't necessarily new. One of the most promising is the Italian Incrocio Manzoni (incrocio means cross). Created in the 1930s by vintner Luigi Manzoni, but not produced in any great quantities until recently, it's a cross between fruity Riesling Renano and fragrant Pinot Bianco. An elegant wine, with characteristic notes of nectarine and apple, Incrocio Manzoni goes well with delicate risottos and fish dishes. To buy a case, contact Veneto's Rechsteiner winery, tel: (39-422) 752 074.