Here's the Beef

For years London was a hamburger wasteland. Remember the British take on American diners? Yech. The best most joints could offer was a fatty, premade beef patty lost inside a stale, wan roll. And if the bland, greasy taste didn't drive diners away, mad-cow disease and a backlash against fast food just about wiped hamburgers off London menus. But rejoice, burger lovers: the humble patty on a bun is experiencing a renaissance.

Three stylish but casual premium-burger chains are challenging fast-food competitors with better bread and meat that goes beyond beef to free-range chicken or lamb. These 21st century joints prepare their own patties, grill them while you wait, and serve them on fresh rolls with a side of chunky homemade fries. You can even top off your meal with an American-style milkshake. The bill, starting at $5, makes these restaurants a bargain by London standards.

The eateries have spread across the city. Gourmet Burger Kitchen opened its first outlet in the south-of-the-River Thames neighborhood of Clapham in 2001 and soon expanded to eight locations scattered around London — see www.gbkinfo.co.uk for all addresses. Seating is at contemporary dark-wood tables and booths, and a giant chalkboard displays the menu. Faithful customers order the thick, 160-g burgers ground from juicy Aberdeen Angus beef and laid on freshly baked, preservative-free sourdough rolls, which can be topped with 12 combinations of exotic cheeses and sauces, such as spicy satay, aged Stilton or mango and ginger. The menu also offers lamb, venison and chicken burgers and three vegetarian versions. If you don't find a favorite among the five flavors of milkshakes, go for wine from the decent mid-priced list with an emphasis on New World vintages.

Shoppers and playgoers in the West End can drop into one of Hamburger Union's hip and trendy outlets — on Dean Street or Garrick Street — or north Londoners can grab a quick bite at a third on Upper Street in Islington. These newcomers are challenging GBK's dominance with Scottish, grass-fed, additive-free beef. For Atkins dieters who still want to indulge, the chefs will omit the bun, but carbo-loaders can feast on the "proper chips, never frozen." You can also get the vegetarian options, milkshakes and wine that GBK pioneered, and with speedy service. Lovers of burger kitsch will be glad to see the traditional tomato-shaped ketchup bottles adorning every table.

The newest kid on the premium-burger block is real burger world. Its family-friendly places, on Lavender Hill in Clapham and North End Road in southwest London's Fulham, opened in 2003 and 2005. Their specialties are handmade beef, lamb and chicken burgers infused with Indian or Thai spices, or mint, accompanied by potato-skin fries, and shakes made with fresh chocolate, strawberries or bananas. But don't ask for bacon on that burger or for alcoholic bevvies — Muslim co-owner Naz Choudhury prepares the food according to halal standards.