The Pillage People

The Shetland Islands may be the most northerly part of Britain, but from January to March, they're ruled by Vikings. Norway lost Shetland to the Scots in 1468, but the islanders have never forgotten their roots. Since the early 19th century, Shetlanders have celebrated Up Helly Aa, a fire festival that heralds the end of winter and the return of the sun. The biggest celebration is in Lerwick, the capital, on the last Tuesday in January; this year it's Jan. 31.

Last year, 51 Vikings wearing blue velvet tunics, winged helmets and sealskin capes cheered and wielded their axes as they dragged their

longship through Lerwick's streets. Behind them, cannibals with necklaces of fake teeth, pirates and fat ballerinas were among the nearly 900 guisers: men in costume bearing flaming torches whose deep voices bellow out over the brass band, "Let us ne'er forget the race,/ Who bravely fought and died./ Who never filled a craven's grave,/ But ruled the foaming tide."

No women take part, but with so many of the torchbearers opting to wear dresses, the festival has earned the moniker Transvestite Tuesday. Last year, one such lovely was Tavish Scott, Member of the Scottish Parliament, who looked ravishing in a luminous green tutu. The climax of the day is a terrifying amalgam of Lord of the Flies and the pilgrimage to Mecca. The galley is placed in the center of a children's playground; the men move into a carefully choreographed spiral; then, on cue, they toss in their torches and with a roar, the ship goes up in a blaze of glory. tel: (44-8701) 999 440; www.visitshetland.com

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