Surfers' Surfeit

Giv

en that it's crowded with surfers and home to the Ford Ironman Triathlon World Championship, it's safe to assume that there are lots of hungry folk in the town of Kailua-Kona, on the island of Hawaii. But you don't have to swim across 3.8 km of ocean, cycle for another 180 km and then run a marathon—like the triathletes do—in order to work up an appetite. Merely spending a day on the beach or doing a spot of fishing will suffice. And when the hunger pangs strike, there are lots of friendly eateries to choose from. Many are to be found along or close to Ali'i Drive, the town's eat street.

Start your day right with a big cup of homegrown coffee from Island Lava Java, tel: (1-808) 327 2161. This bustling breakfast venue is packed from about 8 a.m. with locals and tourists alike. If the super-sized plates of eggs, bacon and potatoes are too much, try the homemade waffles.

For casual lunches head to Poncho & Lefty's Cantina & Restaurante, tel: (1-808) 326 2171. The tortillas and nachos are a bit oily, but the salsa is beautifully fiery. If you're thinking about a midday drink, be warned: the margaritas are made with intemperate amounts of tequila. Have more than one, and you may end up face down in the guacamole. Best wait for a sundowner at Lulu's, tel: (1-808) 331 2633. This Kona institution is especially popular with a younger crowd and offers ocean views as well as live music.

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There are more water views at Rio's Seafood Grill & Bar, tel: (1-808) 329 8200—one of Kona's best venues for a blowout feast. Being on holiday, you have probably thrown dietary caution to the winds, and that's just as well: portions here are enormous, even by U.S. standards. We took our leftovers away, and got another huge meal out of them the next day.

Feel like a cleansing ale? Try the Kona Brewing Company, tel: (1-808) 334 2739, which offers a range of delicious beers brewed on site. The Big Wave Golden Ale is popular, but if you like a stronger hop flavor ask for Fire Rock Pale Ale. The brewery also helps to organize an annual Brewers Festival (the next is on March 11). This event may not put Kona on the world map the way Ironman does, but in terms of conviviality we know which one we prefer.