Pleasure Factory

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For much of the 1990s, the former industrial area of Zurich-West was deserted, the factories that once produced turbines and steamboats standing eerily silent. Then, in 2000, Schiffbau — a 19th century shipbuilding plant — was gutted to make way for a restaurant, jazz club and cluster of theaters. Today, nearly all of the area's brick-clad buildings have been repurposed as bars, shops and galleries, flanked by chic loft apartments. It's a transformation that's helping to turn Switzerland's largest city from a buttoned-up financial capital into something approaching a fashionable metropolis.

In the past few years, Schiffbau has seen the addition of popular new bar Nietturm, tel: (41-44) 258 7077, with striking views from its seven-meter-high steel-and-glass tower. Equally dramatic are the raw-boned interiors of the adjacent Giessereihalle, another of the area's ex-factories. Browse its prêt-à-porter boutiques, like Duett, tel: (41-43) 818 2814, before taking herbal tea at the newly opened Teepunkt, tel: (41-43) 540 4233. Giessereihalle also features a state-of-the-art spa in Skin, tel: (41-43) 818 4343. For gastronomic rejuvenation, head to the Zuppamundial restaurant, tel: (41-43) 818 2391 — designer soups are the specialty and the wine list is one of the city's best.

There's no shortage of post-prandial entertainment. It's just five months old, but with its period furnishings the Tutto cocktail bar, tel: (41-43) 818 2391, is as good a simulacrum of the 1960s as you'll find. The chandeliers and red velvet at BASILICA, tel: (41-43) 366 9383, take revelers back to an even older era. More contemporary interiors are found at the Labor Bar, tel: (41-44) 272 4402, backdrop to local TV celebrity Kurt Aeschbacher's chat show, or at Hard One, tel: (41-44) 444 1000, a slick rooftop lounge. Among the area's many good dance clubs are Rohstofflager, tel: (41-44) 439 9090, and Club Q, tel: (41-43) 444 4050.

But Zurich-West offers more than merely corporeal gratification. Culture vultures will enjoy the GALERIE Bob Van Orsouw, tel: (41-44) 273 1100, as well as Art One, tel: (41-44) 273 1737, which specializes in the work of young up-and-comers. And no trip to Zurich-West would be complete without a visit to Kunsthalle, tel: (41-44) 272 1515, and the Migros Museum of contemporary art, tel: (41-44) 277 2050, both located in the 19th century former Löwenbräu brewery. The beer may be gone, but these galleries, like the rest of the area, are offering diversions that are no less intoxicating.