Family Thais

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If you like a hotel to be more like a home, then you'll love the Old Bangkok Inn, tel: (662) 629 1787. Located on Rajadamnern Avenue, smack in the middle of the Thai capital's historic quarter, this snug little property has just eight individually appointed rooms. Patronne Nantiya Tulyanond can't resist cozy touches such as daily homemade cakes and nightly pillow presents. And her son Joey has been known to lead impromptu tours around the major landmarks of the neighborhood, from the Democracy Monument to the gentrifying nightlife of Khao San Road. He's also[an error occurred while processing this directive] the tech head responsible for installing a computer in every room and for setting up wi-fi Internet access throughout.

There's even some family history behind the inn. It's actually a converted shophouse that was built on a plot granted to the Tulyanond's ancestors by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). The land has been in the family now for seven generations, and as you would expect, plenty of care has been lavished on the building that stands on it.

Rooms are simply but stylishly appointed with teak furniture, while the odd family heirloom and pieces of pottery hand-painted by Nantiya lend a homely feel. Bathrooms feature toiletries custom blended according to one of four aromatic themes — lemongrass, jasmine, orchid and rice. Another pleasing touch is the Tulyanonds' commitment to the environment and the community: showers pump out solar-heated water and the inn's construction incorporates salvaged wood. Guests wanting to do more to save the world can make a donation at checkout to one of the animal or children's charities on the Tulyanonds' list — and the inn will match it. Given that rates can be as low as $79 a night (or even cheaper if you pay in cash and book 60 days in advance), you should certainly be able to spare some change for a good cause.