The Desert's Edge

Onc

e a haven for hippies, Marrakech has outgrown that phase along with its visitors. Today, it's a showcase of high design, mixing Euro cool with the medina's rich colors. The "new Marrakech" look is keeping local craftsmen busy: if you spy a piece of furniture you like during your stay, most places will sell it to you and ship it back home.

Jnane Tamsna
This desert organic fruit and veggie farm has a clay tennis court and five swimming pools. Each of the 17 rooms is unique, with brass lamps, carved headboards and armchairs, and handwoven textiles. Most items are designed by owner Meryanne Loum-Martin or hand-picked by her in markets from Uzbekistan to India. Route de Ses, Circuit de la Palmeraie, Marrakech; tel: (212) 24 32 94 23; www.jnanetamsna.com

El Mezouar
Down an alleyway in the heart of a frenetic medina neighborhood, this old villa's five bedrooms, set around a serene courtyard with orange trees and a mosaic dipping pool, has carved mirror frames, tiled floors and silver-tin light shades. Drink mint tea on the Andalucian balconies or on rich-colored cushions in front of the fireplace in winter. 28 Derb El Hammam, Issebtinne, Medina; tel: (212) 24 38 09 49

Villa Maroc
The fishing port of Essaouira is a perfect escape from Marrakech, a two-hour drive away and cooled by Atlantic winds on the long beaches that flank it. There are lovely sea views from the hotel, which nestles just inside the fortified town walls. But guests will also want to gaze inward at its designer interpretation of traditional decor and shady courtyard. 10 Rue Abdellah Ben Yassine, Essaouira; tel: (212) 24 47 31 47; villa-maroc.com

Maison Arabe
The inn's traditional Moroccan waxed walls display Gebbah rugs, copper lamps and carved cedar doors and balconies. Hide away in the candlelit courtyard by the 18th century fountain or eat tapas in the piano bar. 1 Derb Assehbé, Bab Doukkala, Medina; tel: (212) 24 38 70 10; www.lamaisonarabe.com

Le Foundouk Restaurant
This restored caravansary no longer has beds (or camels), but you'll want to curl up on a divan on the rooftop. Expect rap music as you sit under African carvings, wrought-iron balconies and a chandelier that drops three floors through the atrium. And the Moroccan and French food is delicate and tasty. 55 Souk Hal Fassi, Kat Bennahïd, Medina; tel: (212) 24 38 81 90; www.foundouk.com