Vintage Estonia

Wine snobs the world over like to show off their expertise by sniffing at a glass and identifying the notes of black currant, citrus and other fruits they detect. For those who find that intimidating, help is at hand from a country not usually associated with wine: Estonia.

Stick your nose in a glass of Estonian red, and if it smells like black currant, then it probably is. The tiny Baltic republic is located too far [an error occurred while processing this directive] north to grow grapes, but it has a flourishing tradition of making wine from the berries that are found in abundance in its woodlands.

The process is the same as making wine from grapes: after harvesting, the berries are crushed and the juice fermented in big aluminum vats. The most precious vintages are left to mature, sometimes for a decade or more, before being bottled. Since Estonia regained its independence in 1991, the industry has undergone a revival. There are only a handful of wineries, but they are branching out, experimenting with new blends of berries, and working to develop a range of drier and lighter table wines. The traditional sweet dessert wines remain popular for festive occasions. The Estonians are also trying to export them. I visited the nation's biggest and oldest winery, Põltsamaa Veinikelder, tel: (372) 776 6199; www.poltsamaafelix.ee, about 140 km south of the capital, Tallinn, to do some sampling. Tasting notes:

LOSSIVEIN '85
Pure blueberry, drunk slightly chilled. The best of the new generation of drier wines, recommended as an accompaniment to a hearty meal of game. It is also used as communion wine in local Protestant churches.
Color: cheerful Beaujolais red
Nose: syrupy
Palate: once the initial blast of pure alcohol wears off, succulent blueberry

POLTSAMAA TOMMU '94-'96
Black currant that's been maturing for a decade. This and an aged apple variant are prestige wines served on special occasions.
Color: dark and opaque red, like a strong Hungarian vintage
Nose: smoky black currant
Palate: first impression is similar to port. Then the earthy aftertaste kicks in, and lingers disagreeably

KIRSISUUDLUS (Cherry Kiss)
A blend of black currants with a dash of cherry aroma
Color: pinkish red
Nose: a cloying cherry brandy
Palate: Clean and surprisingly light, with no muddy aftertaste. Watch for this one to become the hot new cocktail mixer for upscale barmen