Lakeland Lark

CUMBRIAN COZY: The Samling has an at-home feel
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The dramatic landscape of England's Lake District has long acted as muse to artist and writer alike. It's easy to imagine nature enthusiast and future poet laureate William Wordsworth getting inspired during his visits in the early 19th century, rent in hand, to the home of his landlord on Lake Windermere's northeastern shore. That same house is now the Samling, an 11-bedroom hotel nestled in 27 hectares of pastures and woodland with gorgeous views of the lake.

No wonder the Georgian house is occasionally hired out exclusively (and discreetly) to celebrity guests who appreciate its family-home feel. You won't encounter the smugness sometimes found in a British country-house hotel, and the traditional decor employs florals without falling victim to chintz.

If, after a day of bracing fell climbing or water sports you find yourself in need of a stiff drink, have a predinner cocktail by the open-hearth fire. Such canapés as foie gras ballotine and quail egg with truffle mayo are exquisite teasers to the local-fare feast of up to eight courses. Standouts include creamed crab, potato and tomato mille-feuilles with lime crème fraiche; roast free-range chicken, tarragon mousseline, creamed leeks and black Périgord truffle; and homemade petits fours.

From the dining room it's a contented crawl to your cozy en-suite room upstairs or, if you're lodging in the sumptuous split-level cottages up the slope, it's an effortful short stroll. Higher still is the outdoor hot tub—talk about a bath with a view. Like Wordsworth's, your pockets may be a little emptier when you leave, but you'll feel completely revitalized—and rather well fed. tel: (44-1539) 431922; www.thesamling.com