It's Cool Up North

No longer synonymous with the Nobel Prize or the color beige, Stockholm is emerging as a capital of cool, and its name is now increasingly bandied about in the same breath as London, Tokyo, Paris and New York City. Venture into SoFo on Södermalm, on the capital's south island in the Baltic Sea, and you'll see why: once a working-class district, these days the streets south of Folkungagatan (hence SoFo) attract a young, creative crowd who come here to relax, refuel and spend their kronor in an eclectic array of shops. As the word spreads, more tourists are showing up to make a beeline for the neighborhood's retro home-furnishing stores, vintage-clothes boutiques and characterful cafés and bars. Set aside at least half a day and prepare for a retail smorgasbord.

At kitsch emporium Coctail de Luxe, Bondegatan 34, tel: (46-8) 642 07 41, you can ogle the pink flamingos and comic books before moving on to Grandpa, Södermannagatan 21, tel: (46-8) 643 60 80; www.grandpa.se. The rustic boutique flogs a curious mix of wares — from his-and-hers outfits and handmade soap to board games and manicure sets — as well as '60s and '70s furniture.

If you're feeling peckish and fancy buying a slice of carrot cake or a coffee — as well as your plate and mug — pop into the modish Café String, Nytorgsgatan 38, tel: (46-8) 714 85 14; www.cafestring.com, where absolutely everything is for sale.

Are the streets feeling too chilled? At Beyond Retro, Asögatan 144, tel: (46-8) 641 36 42; www.beyondretro.com, you can browse secondhand frocks, Western and army gear — to the beat of the in-store band.

And when your shopping bags are full, head over to PetSoundsBar, Skanegatan 80, tel: (46-8) 643 82 25; www.petsoundsbar.se, for a jukebox inspired cocktail (a peach vodka concoction called A Boy Named Sue is a big seller) and a lobster soup followed by a chocolate terrine — surprisingly sophisticated fare for a venue with a rockabilly-and-indie-loving DJ.

If the bar has a familiar ring to it, that's because, like Pet Sounds Records down the road, Skanegatan 53, tel: (46-8) 702 97 98; www.petsounds.se/web/, it was named after the classic 1966 Beach Boys album. Musicians from far and wide flock to the store, but the most prolific customer? That'd be filmmaker Quentin Tarantino. Says Stefan Jacobson, 53, who owns both places, "The last time he was here he picked up a 1950s country album by Wanda Jackson — recorded in German." SoFo, so good.