Hot Cocoa

The first stop for many visitors to Edinburgh is a Scotch whisky tasting, the better to immerse oneself in the Scottish spirit. But for a wee dram of something equally warming, stroll down to PLAISIR DU CHOCOLAT, about a 15-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle. The opulent Art Nouveau café at 251 Canongate offers up chocolate as it was meant to be: rich, flavorful and complex. Founder and master chocolatier Bertrand Espouy treats chocolate as sommeliers would wine, with an emphasis on origin, terroir and manufacture. The café window features a mouthwatering display of exquisite house-made pastries and cakes, and inside, diners choose from a menu of hot chocolate drinks categorized by country of origin and percentage of cocoa.

The classic Chocolat Chaud has 53% cocoa content (milky, sweet and reminiscent of childhood), and the decadent Chocolate Expresso is made with cream instead of hot milk — it's so thick it could be mistaken for custard. Frenchman Espouy takes his patrons on a tour of cocoa-producing countries: the Caribbean Santo Domingo, made with 70% cocoa, is spicy and bold, while the bittersweet African Tanzania is reminiscent of a complex cognac. The adventurous will want to try the Infinite Extravagance, made to the ancient Inca recipe, with 100% cocoa liquor and hot milk infused with chilies. For the indecisive, there is a tasting option with a demitasse of each of the above.

Still missing that Scotch? The café offers pairings of local whiskies with specially selected chocolate truffles. Now that's getting into the Scottish spirit. www.plaisirduchocolat.com