Bon Bonbons

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What, you ask, is a mini macaron? It's a bite-sized version of its larger cousin, a delicate but explosive cream-filled, pastel-colored meringue cookie as cheery as an Easter egg and sweet as a stolen kiss. It's an indulgence, a passion, then an obsession. In other words, it's the ultimate French confection. Paris is divided into two camps: those who hold that the best mini macarons come from Ladurée, and those that swear by Pierre Hermé. This is a somewhat academic debate, since Hermé worked at Ladurée before opening his own shops in Paris and Tokyo.

So which is the best ever? That depends on how old your tastebuds are. Ladurée is the stuff that French childhood dreams are made of. Fruit flavors are fresh and clear. I wish I'd grown up having a raspberry, citron and buttery sea-salt caramel trio waiting for me after school. But the ones from Hermé's swish shop are mini macarons for grown-ups. Like an haute couture fashion house, Hermé rolls out a new collection every fall and spring. Sophisticated flavor combinations like green tea and chestnut bring simple pleasures to a new level of contemporary cool, while the olive oil or white truffle macarons are utterly astonishing. Even the surfaces are brilliant — some glisten like mother of pearl. Life may be like a box of chocolates, but happiness is a meringue rainbow by Hermé. laduree.fr; pierreherme.com