Arabian Bites

As coreligionists, Muslim Indonesians and Moroccans share many cultural similarities, but it's a rather different story when it comes to food. For years, Indonesians have been turning up their noses at the aromatic joys of meze, kebabs and tagine, but the recent opening of three Moroccan restaurants in the capital Jakarta indicate change is underway.

"This is the closest you'll come to Morocco in the region," says head chef Sezai Zorlu of Maroush, arguably the foremost of the trio. Nestled in South Jakarta's Crowne Plaza Hotel, its giant brass doors open to reveal lavish tapestries and paintings, ornate lamps, plush cushions and elaborate place settings, with virtually every item flown in from Marrakech. Most of the ingredients are imported, too. "As a matter of fact," says Sezai, "the saffron we use in our rice, lamb and chicken dishes costs more per gram than gold."

Mercifully for diners, Sezai's use of the fabled spice is a workable compromise between flavor and affordability. Meals of mixed starters, entrée and dessert can be comfortably had for under $30. Afterwards, guests can head to the champagne bar and enjoy the one Moroccan delicacy about which there is no debate in smoking-mad Indonesia: 12 flavors of imported tobacco, drawn through handblown glass shisha pipes. For reservations call (62-21) 9290 1313.