River Respite

The Royal Livingstone on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls sets itself a tough task by attempting to be hotel enough to rival Africa's most famous spectacle. It succeeds in cherry-picking the best bits (Victorian exploring parasols, butlers and leather luggage) and cutting out the worst (sweat, danger, warm drinks). Each of the 173 rooms has a balcony with an uninterrupted view of the Zambezi River and the tumbling mist beyond; the main building is a series of serene, thatched atria, more reminiscent of Bali than the bush; and there are friendly zebras in the gardens. The food is a well-presented...