The Thrill Of The Grill

The plethora of grilling gear is only partly a case of consumerism run rampant. Barbecuing is the classic multitasking cuisine. First, there's the sheer spectacle of it: it's cooking as showing off. Grillers with a flair for the dramatic can cook such eye-catching dishes as beer-can chicken (cooked standing upright on two legs with a half-drunk beer shoved into its cavity). Then there's the opportunity to network. Who can resist rallying around the chef while he slaves over the swordfish? As Raichlen says, "Nobody ever comes and gives me a beer and a kiss hello when I'm deep-frying."