Remembering a Jewelry Icon

With statement jewelry enjoying a major comeback on fall runways, it makes sense to look once again at the dynamic creations from the 1960s and '70s by the late Andrew Grima, who died at 86 in December. "Until now, Grima has been undervalued," says David Warren, head of jewelry at Christie's, London, who notes that what would thrill Grima most would be "to see 28-year-olds wearing their grandmothers' pieces." In his heyday, Grima had stores in Zurich, London, New York, Tokyo and Sydney, and counted a Swinging '60s Princess Margaret and Bond girl Ursula Andress as fans. In the '70s, when his work in textured yellow gold and raw emeralds, sapphires and opals became even wilder, Jacqueline Onassis became a convert. His most significant client, however, was the Queen of England, who still reaches into her jewelry box for old favorites. Last year she chose to wear a striking Grima brooch of rubies and diamonds, created for her in 1966, to read her annual Christmas speech.