Sashimi on Demand?

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And Stehr first must produce some fish. He points out that he's already proved doubters wrong by being the first to propagate yellowtail kingfish; he has about 5,000 metric tons of growing fish in offshore pens at Arno Bay. But tuna can be trickier to deal with. "You look at a fish wrong," he says, "and they keel over." Still, he has no doubt he'll succeed. "We have run the marathon," he says. "We're stepping into the stadium. Even if we fall now, we will crawl inch by inch."

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Photos

Tail of the Tuna

Fishy Business To see more of Trent Parke's photos of tuna being harvested, go to time.com/tuna