Postcard from Damascus

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Syria's thriving capital boasts the Damascus Gate, the world's largest restaurant.

Louai Beshara / AFP / Getty

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But how far will Assad go? While a peace deal sweetened with Western aid would put Syria on solid economic ground, conflict with Israel has helped justify the security state that keeps him in power. And Damascus would probably have to break off its partnership with Iran, an alliance that helped it survive those years as a Western pariah. "Syria has a stark choice to make," says Andrew Tabler, a co-founder of the English-language magazine Syria Today. "They can't reconcile friendship with Iran and peace with Israel." Still, many have faith in the nation's promise. "Syria is a virgin country, like China was 20 years ago," says Nabil Sukkar, one of the country's leading economic reformers. "No matter what you do, you find gold."

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