On Walkabout in Australia's Wild Eden

Cameras are poised, eyes peeled and expectations high as we cruise the water lily-strewn channels of the Yellow Water wetlands in the tropical Top End of the Australian outback. "Brolga on the left," the tour guide announces. All eyes swivel left, toward the graceful gray crane. Cameras click. "Egret just ahead," he calls. More craning (of necks) and pointing of cameras. "Darter, tern, black-necked stork!" The birders in the group are in a state of near ecstasy. The rest of us are biding our time. Ten minutes later we round a corner and the collective cry goes up: "Crocodile!" There's a stampede as everyone rushes to the side of the boat, which miraculously remains stable. The croc's a big one, maybe 1.3 tons of reptilian flesh and bones basking on the bank. Also big are the teeth, which you can't help but notice as its considerable jaw is wide open. Maybe a warning? Our guide offers a more sympathetic explanation: estuarine, or saltwater, crocs often keep their mouths open when lolling in the sun to prevent their brains from overheating.

The world's biggest reptile is a major draw for visitors to Kakadu, Australia's largest—and most famous—national park. But there are other, equally compelling reasons to visit the 20,000-sq-km preserve. Declared a World Heritage area for its outstanding cultural and ecological offerings, Kakadu includes one of the finest and most extensive collections of rock art and embraces some spectacular scenery, from a rugged 500-km-long sandstone escarpment to extensive woodlands and wetlands. It is also on Asia's doorstep: its gateway city, Darwin, is closer to Jakarta and Singapore than to the nation's capital, Canberra. Most people visit during the dry season (April-September), when the humidity is low and comfortable 21C-33C temperatures prevail. But we chose to come in February despite the intense humidity, frequent downpours, flooded roads and dramatic electrical thunderstorms that are regular features of the wet season (December-March). Sweating, drenchings and startling natural sound-and-light shows notwithstanding, the "wet" is also the time to see the park at its verdant best.

After the crocodile cruise, we take a walk along a waterlogged trail to Nourlangie, an Aboriginal rock shelter dating back 20,000 years, which has several examples of rock art. At the main site the paintings focus on the legend of Namarrgon, or the Lightning Man, the fellow responsible for the storm about to break over our heads. Considering their antiquity, the images are surprisingly clear. We soon learn why. In 1964 a number of the figures were renewed by a respected Aboriginal artist known as Barramundi Charlie who, our guide Rick tells us, painted over older, similar figures. No, he hastens to add, seeing our shocked expressions, such work does not amount to desecration: repainting is part of the rock-art tradition, although only authorized artists are allowed to do it. More instances of rock art can be found at Ubirr, in the park's northeast. To get there, join an Aborigine-guided Guluyambi River Cruise; call (61-8) 8979-2411 for reservations.

Even though black clouds loom, there is time for a quick dip before the storm hits. The park's official line is that the only guaranteed safe places to swim are in the hotel swimming pools. But Kakadu's natural pools are far too enticing to be avoided just because it's croc breeding season. Rick leads us on a 3-km walk to nearby Gubara Falls and the still waters of a shady rain-forest pool. There's not a crocodile in sight, but there are enough croc-resembling logs floating downstream to spark the occasional frisson of primal fear.

Darkness falls quickly in the tropics and after sundown, there's only one place to be: in one of the park's comfortably appointed accommodations. During the wet season, rates drop considerably. The Kakadu Resort complex, set on a 10-hectare bushland site near the South Alligator River, offers air-conditioned motel rooms (doubles cost $70 a night), powered and unpowered van sites, and a camping area ($3.80 per person); call (61-8) 8979-0166 to book. For those with slightly fatter wallets, there's the Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn in the town of Jabiru, tel: (61-8) 8979-2800. Architectural whimsy has been given full flight in the design of the hotel, which is shaped like a crocodile. Rest assured, normal facilities, including a central courtyard with shaded swimming pool, an outdoor barbecue area and a restaurant offering gourmet bush tucker (Ozspeak for outback specialties) lie within. Doubles, including a full buffet breakfast, are $75 a night.

After a hard day exploring this earthly Eden, head to one of the park's many bars to chill out. The favored drink: ice-cold beer. The dress code: ultra-casual. The attitude: always unruffled, despite the heart-stopping booms and jagged lightning ripping across yonder horizon. Maybe a thirsty Namarrgon is demanding his own brew.