The Rise of Real People

On the runways of Milan last month, fashion designer Giorgio Armani made an unusual fashion statement. The man known for setting the standard for elegance — particularly in men's clothing — paid tribute to the working classes.

Instead of his usual idealized versions of Wall Street bankers and City solicitors, out came a parade of miners, soldiers, laborers. Well, models dressed to look like miners, soldiers, laborers. An idealized version of those he says are the new heroes, the people most worthy of our respect. "I want young people to understand that today's world is false," he told an Italian newspaper. How very post-Sept. 11.

Just days after the attacks Graydon Carter, editor of Vanity Fair, possibly the most sycophantic celebrity magazine in the world, made it clear that there would be a new standard of cool. "Things that are considered fringe and frivolous are going to disappear," he said.

Packaged with the November issue of the glossy magazine was its One Week in September special edition. Page after page of stunning portraits — firefighters, steamfitters, doctors, policemen and flight attendants, all conveying emotion that air-brushed celebrities just can't. Where Vanity Fair goes, others follow.

Corbis, a photo agency, announced it would be distributing a limited-edition Humans catalogue to fashion designers featuring images of, that's right, real people. Corbis is hoping designers will opt for them over supermodels — which, frankly, isn't likely. It might be O.K. for a magazine, but the fashion world is unlikely to risk a season's sales on the selling power of a John Doe.

The idealized version of real people, as seen on the Giorgio Armani catwalk, is so much more appealing. "You must create fantasy," said Giorgio Guidotti, director of communications for Max Mara, an Italian clothing company that prides itself on catering to real people as well as fashionistas. And while the idea of a firefighter is something to fantasize about, the physical reality may not be. So no job security worries for models yet. But supermodels and celebrities are another question. At least you can pretend that a nameless model really is a firefighter or a welder or a pilot. But put Tom Cruise or Antonio Banderas or Linda Evangelista in a firefighter's uniform, and the fantasy evaporates. Suddenly it's crass, commercial and calculated. But fans needn't worry.

The media industry's post-Sept. 11 attempt to get real is only a passing phase. The stars will come out again. Just wait.