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ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGH Perched on the verdant slope of an extinct volcano, the luxurious Mount Popa Resort reigns over the Myingyan Plain, offering a stunning view of the gilded spires and pale green walls of the fairy-tale Popa Daung Kalat Temple complex below. A curious joint venture between the forestry department and a Singaporean lumber and construction firm, the eco-refuge nestles among the sandalwood saplings of a newly established forest conservation project.

Each chalet is surrounded by lavish gardens and has its own private veranda overlooking the mountain peak, the plains or the temple. Well-marked hiking trails lead up to the orchid-rich ancient crater or down to the temple, and horse treks through the forest to a natural spring can be arranged for about $10 an hour. Given the resort's isolation—it can get creepy at night—and reasonable prices elsewhere in Burma, $100 a night is somewhat steep. But once there, when compared with the heat and hard sell of Pagan, the cool breezes, beautiful views and tranquil setting feel priceless; fax (95-62) 70368 for reservations.