Hot Spot

• Share

SUNRISE SURPRISE As an antidote to the burgeoning commercial crassness of the Chiang Rai part of the Golden Triangle, take a drive to Phu Chi Fah, one of the most picturesque and unspoiled spots in Thailand. Its name means "mountain points to the sky," and when you arrive you'll realize why. A great finger of earth thrusts up from the Thai border, gesturing heavenward, while hundreds of meters below a seemingly endless valley fans out into Laos, where scattered black peaks sail on a billowing sea of low-lying cloud.

Even the most casual photographer, armed with one of those disposable happy-snappers, would be hard-pressed to take a bad picture here. We are talking postcard quality every time. As the sun bursts over the horizon, the mountain's jagged silhouette looms dramatically against the dawn's fiery palette. Innumerable hues of pink, red and orange are splashed about the sky, and are gently reflected on the cotton wool kingdom arrayed below.

There's an added attraction each spring, when the surrounding mountains explode with the wild flowers known as dok sieo. During this time, you might even come across a group wedding organized by local tourism authorities.

It's best to get to Phu Chi Fah while it's still dark to appreciate the genuinely breathtaking sunrise. From Chiang Rai town it's about 130 km, which means leaving at 3 a.m. or thereabouts to get there by sunup. Count on a slow trip—at times the fog blanketing the road cuts visibility to a meter or two, making for an exhausting and eerie drive. From the parking lot, it's a 20-minute hike to the summit.

For serious photographers in need of a good night's rest, or those who have time to spare, consider camping out or taking a room at one of several basic but adequate guesthouses scattered near the base. Watch your step as you're straining for that perfect picture, though. There are no guardrails, and it's a long way down to Laos.