Short Cuts

WHALE OF A TIME Oman is the only Arab member of the International Whaling Commission, dedicated to the conservation of whales. The waters off the coast of Oman are home to more than 20 species of marine mammals and provide both breeding and feeding grounds for sperm whales, dolphins and the endangered humpback whales. Head to the bluffs above Muscat to spot dolphins frolicking, or book a whale-watching cruise at Marina Bander al-Rowdha by calling (968) 737-293.

WELCOME BACK Oman is home to a wealth of rare desert animals, including the Arabian oryx, a white antelope with long spiral horns and distinctive black markings. Special kidneys allow the oryx to survive long periods of time without water. By 1972, however, oryx in the wild were hunted almost to extinction, but a new herd, bred in captivity, is slowly being reintroduced to two desert areas. The Central Area Wildlife Reserve has been closed to the public for the past 25 years, but is now opened to limited official tours; browse www.discoveryinitiatives.com/oman.asp.

WATERWORLD Without H2O, it would all be wasteland. With it, Nizwa is a lush oasis of date palms about 165 km from Muscat. Its recently restored 17th century fort is the largest structure from that era on the Arabian peninsula. Check out the deceptive architecture featuring false passageways, as well as the underground stream that provided a steady source of water in case of siege.