Hot Spot

NOUVELLE RUSSIAN Russian food conjures up bland images of black bread, boiled potatoes and cabbage soup. The stereotype often runs true, but on Sakhalin, it's possible to sample what Russian dining can achieve when it exploits what's available locally.

The place to go is Russian Kitchen, or Slavianka in Russian, in the center of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Found directly across the street from the not-so-secret offices of the secret police, it is reputed to be Sakhalin's best restaurant. Diners come from as far away as the northernmost town of Okha, and the venue is fast gaining fame among tourists too.

Most of Sakhalin's other eateries feature white plastic chairs and Formica tabletops. Russian Kitchen offers a softly lit interior accented with ornate Russian trim. Traditional copper cooking implements, paintings and woodwork adorn the walls; the overall impression is that of a Russian country inn where the landed gentry would gather. What truly sets it apart, however, is its food. Sure, all the standard Russian favorites—caviar, borscht, chicken kiev—are available. But the signature dishes spring from Sakhalin's abundant bounty of fresh seafood, game, fruits and vegetables. Start with an appetizer of scallops bathed in a mustard sauce. The tangy dish will leave you wishing it was offered as a main. Or opt for the Kapriz salad cocktail of roast beef, mild white cheese, boiled eggs, pickled cucumber, garlic and an earthy herb vinaigrette. Move on to a salmon and saury combination: slices of juicy fish baked with herbs and green and black olives and topped with a pastry cup of red caviar. A hearty alternative is the Jharkoye Po-Slavyanski: a rich, sour cream stew of meatballs, potatoes and wild mushrooms prepared with a bread cover. End with a fruit tart of fresh raspberries and currants.

A full dinner complete with bottle of vodka runs to about $15 a person. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 10 p.m. Reservations are essential, but as phoning from abroad is difficult, book through your hotel instead.