Detour

Walk On The Wild Side Beyond Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, much of Sakhalin remains sparsely inhabited—a little traveled wilderness of emerald mountains, rocky coastlines and tranquil inland rivers teeming with salmon. Wildlife ranges from foxes, bears, sable and reindeer in the interior to marine bird colonies, seals and sea lions on the coast. It's possible to see them in the same day. The island's undeveloped state means that getting to the wilderness is half the excitement, though it requires stamina and the will to drive yet another hour up the rutted mud strip before you. On the way you may wonder if the bone-jarring ride is worth it, but once faced with the stunning views of cobalt lakes and rolling hills, panicked thoughts of chiropractor bills are quickly forgotten.

Intourist provides a wide range of trips into Sakhalin's interior, an area few non-Russians have ever seen. Activities include visiting indigenous tribes and, for Russo-Japanese War buffs, the 50th parallel, the former demarcation line between Russian-held northern Sakhalin and Japanese-controlled southern Sakhalin.

But nature is the primary attraction beyond Yuzhno. Just a few hours' hike up the dirt road from town brings the adventurous to the Bolshevik Mountains visible from Gagarin Park. There, hip-high wildflowers in full bloom come close to overpowering visitors with their intoxicating scents, a welcome change from the dusty streets of Yuzhno. For those who would rather hunt wildlife than simply admire it, Sakhalin has large brown bear and Manchurian deer populations. Autumn is the main hunting season, and permits for firearms are available through Intourist. It also arranges a five-day fishing trip on the Chamga River during the salmon spawning season, all-inclusive for about $750. For those with a bigger budget, Intourist can organize a summer fishing vacation to the remote Vengery River by helicopter. It beats driving.