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KHAJURAHO At about $63 a night, the Taj Chandela is one of the most expensive—and finest—hotels in Khajuraho, especially compared to the serviceable $10-per-night guest houses nearer the temples. But during the hot season (April to July), the extra expenditure is a necessity, not a luxury. With noontime temperatures reaching a wilting 45°C, the Chandela's swimming pool is the only reasonable place to while away the afternoon hours. If a room is not in your budget, day use of the pool costs $4. And if you really feel like splashing out, or your feet need a little maintenance after a day of walking barefoot through temples littered with bat guano, a pedicure in the '50s vintage beauty salon goes for $3. Call (91-7686) 723-55 for reservations.

VARANASI With a 2,000-year history as a pilgrimage destination, Varanasi doesn't lack for places to stay. But the stylish Hotel Ganges View, located at Assi Ghat, is in a class of its own. Only recently converted from a private residence, the 100-year-old guest house retains a convivial charm. Each of the 13 rooms is individually decorated with antique furniture. The roof terrace is ideal for watching the sun rising and setting over the river. Doubles start at $16. Call (91-542) 313-218 for reservations and ask for room nine, complete with frescoed ceiling and private balcony.

QUOTES OF THE DAY

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  • RICK DYER,
  • of Atlanta, who, along with Matt Whitton, says their claim to have found Bigfoot was a joke that got out of hand. Whitton got fired from his job as a police officer for lying about it on national television