Short Cuts

A SHOP WITH A VIEW Amid a congested web of alleyways and devotional shops that make up the old city stands the 226-year-old Vishwanath Temple, commonly known as the Golden Temple for its gilded domes. Because it's Varanasi's holiest shrine, it's not welcoming to non-Hindus, who are considered impure. Armed guards at the periphery bark questions, demanding to know where you're from, and why you want to enter. The body pats, as much an antiterrorism measure as a search for concealed cameras (photographing the temple is a sacrilege), are disconcertingly thorough.

The inner sanctum, choked with chanting de- votees, is barred to nonbelievers. But it's possible to gaze down on its gold-plated lotus domes from the second-story window of the Udai Silk shop across the street. Even from the relative concealment of the silken perch, cameras are still strictly forbidden. Once a customer managed to sneak in a shot, but the telltale flash sent police running upstairs. "They grabbed the camera, and ripped out the film," says proprietor Udai. The view is free—that is if you can resist the eager sales pitch. The slightest flicker of interest in the brightly hued bolts of fabric will send Udai scurrying to unfurl a cascade of iridescent silks across the floor and over your lap. What's the view worth? A $10 pair of tailored silk trousers is good value.

INTOXICATING TEAIn contrast, the soft sell rules downstairs at the Sri Maa Perfume Shop. Passersby are offered seemingly innocent cups of the Sri Maa Special Masala Tea, so flavorful it's addictive. Owner Shiku pours smaller and smaller doses of it, to the point where his victim will buy anything to get another cup. Once the requisite fragrant oils are purchased, Shiku produces a tiny gold velvet bag redolent of rare spices: cinnamon, cardamom, clove, mace, nutmeg and saffron—the secret to his house blend. "For five dollars," he whispers, "you can make the tea at home." But when you run out, be prepared to fork out for more of Shiku's perfumes.

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