Short Cut

HOMETOWN HANKERINGS Nanjing boasts some of the best universities in China and a sizable population of foreign students. As a result, there is also a great demand for cheap, Western-style food. I know because, six years ago, I was one of these culture-shocked scholars myself. At that time, the only Western choice available was McDonald's. What we would have given for the Skyways Bakery in my day! This inconspicuous café and deli is tucked among the Chinese restaurants and vendors lining West Hankou Street, offering classic homesickness remedies such as roast beef sandwiches and Italian ice cream sundaes.

Skyways has a comfortable, cozy ambiance accentuated by tiny, cloth-covered tables. It's the perfect place to grab a cup of coffee and watch the world go by. Apart from eat-in meals, they also offer delicious fresh-baked cakes and bread. And it seems the locals are catching on to the wonders of European baking as well. On my most recent visit, a lone Chinese woman came into the shop and ordered a slice of Black Forest cake, tiramisu and a glass of cold milk. Moments later she was forking her way through her plate of dessert with obvious pleasure. Back when I was a student, a feast like that would have had me weeping for joy.