Short Cuts

DROP A LINE A half-hour's drive from the plantation town of Siddapura, plus a mile hike into the woods, is the Valanoor fishing camp on the Cauvery River. Valanoor is a picture-book angler's haven. The waters are home to the silvery Mahseer fish. Known as hard fighters when hooked on lures or flies, the Mahseer (meaning "big head" or "big mouth") is the king of Indian river game. Pay a small fee, and rent gear from the Coorg Wildlife Society for about $10. On most days, you'll have a stretch of river to yourself—the locals have their own favorite hot spots where the setting may not be as nice but the angling is free.

TONS OF FUN Reaching the Dubare Elephant Camp is almost a safari in itself. You have to traverse a muddy, turbulent river in a questionably sound boat. But once on terra firma, the trauma of the crossing becomes worthwhile. The camp, a settlement of about 30 tribal families, was once engaged in the capture and breaking of wild elephants. Today the residents breed and train the ones they already have, and put on shows for tourists. Sounds pretty tame, but the camp's denizens love to point to a rogue jumbo, tethered with heavy chains nearby, and recount the harrowing tale of the time he ran amok in the forest. It's enough to make you want to get back on the boat.