Detours

STONE SCULPTURE There are so many awe-inspiring architectural delights in Petra that it would be easy to bypass the Monastery, thinking, what's one more building carved into solid rock? But for those willing to take the hour-long trek up 1,000-plus stone steps, the ancient Nabataeans have prepared a wondrous reward. The decorative façade, carved into a solid chunk of yellow sandstone in the 3rd century B.C., rises 45 meters above the ground. If the hike through rock canyons and past stunning vistas is a little tortuous, a small, Bedouin-run café offering cold drinks and chairs awaits at the top. For those with extra energy and a taste for heights, it is possible to scramble up the back of the façade to the stone roof where you can perch with your feet hanging into the void. If you ask one of the guards how to get there, he will tell you it is not allowed. If you look disappointed enough, he will lead you up himself. Leave your camera with a friend—to take a photo of you that you'll want to send home to mom.

MUSIC BOX It seems an unlikely place to find a jazz club, but Vinaigrette, on the top floor of the Howard Johnson AlQasr Hotel, tel: (962) 6568 9671, in the Shmeisani district of Amman, is where people in the know meet for late-night drinks and Arab fusion music. The glass walls of the bar offer spectacular night views over the capital; in the summer the open terrace is a great place to catch a cool breeze away from the traffic noise and pollution of town. The room is dark and intimate, and the tables small; each is graced with potted herbs in lieu of flowers. The menu is simple: design-your-own salads and crepes, which makes a nice change from pita and hummus. For those with a sweet tooth, the nutella crepe is divine and the Black Forest cake oozes with caramel and chocolate. English and Jordanian Arabic is spoken here, as this is a popular destination for locals and expats alike. Don't plan to stop in on your way somewhere else. Service is slow—the better to enjoy the view, the music and the ambiance.