Shifting Out Of Neutral

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Vodka is usually thought of as a neutral drink, odorless and tasteless. But with premium vodkas being the fastest-growing category in liquor sales, these high-priced spirits are offering a whole new range of aroma and taste. Vodka is most often produced by fermenting and distilling grains or potatoes, but it can also be made from fruits, vegetables or anything else that grows. We tasted some new blends, and here are our favorites:

Ciroc. The only premium vodka on the market made from French grapes, Ciroc has a sweet, citrusy scent and a vaguely fruity taste similar to grappa's. Try it neat or in a specialty cocktail.

Citadelle. Also from France, this wheat-based vodka has a cherry-like aroma and is incredibly smooth, with a slight anise aftertaste. It's great for mixed drinks.

Precis. This corn-based vodka comes from Sweden and has a nice finish; a smooth, silky texture; a citrusy aroma; and a spicy undertone in its taste. Drink it in a martini.

Zyr. Made from water drawn from 460 ft. below the Russian ground, Zyr is distilled five times with winter wheat and rye. This creates a velvety-smooth feel in the mouth, a floral scent with a faint vanilla taste and a sipping vodka that is at its best drunk neat or on the rocks.