India: Detour

CHECK IN, TUNE OUT Goa is a touristy destination but you don't need to be oppressed by the numbers, particularly in the south. Committed party animals who flock to North Goa have a wide choice of places to stay, starting from a few dollars a night. There are also some beautiful resort-style bungalows, such as the Taj Holiday Village, tel: (91-832) 247 9123, near the moated ruins of Fort Aguada and overlooking the mouth of the Mandovi River.

The Park Hyatt Goa, tel: (91-832) 272 1234, on Arossim beach, South Goa, is one of the best new resorts in Asia. It takes an established vacation concept—the holiday village—and breathes sparkling life into it, with innovative architecture and an unusual array of activities. This is essentially a luxurious recreation of an Indo-Portuguese town, and is as colorful and entertaining as a Bollywood set, laid out around what the hotel claims is the largest swimming pool in India. Immediately adjacent to the Park Hyatt (and rather easier on the wallet) is the Kenilworth Beach Resort, tel: (91-832) 275 4871, with very pleasant rooms in the mid-range category.

The Leela Palace, tel: (91-832) 287 1234, is something of an institution, setting the benchmark for opulence in Goa for many years before the arrival of slicker competition. Its palatial lobby is still impressive, though some say the standard of service has fallen off in recent times. Take note though: Aman, the Singapore-based resort chain, just took over the running of the property and has plans to upgrade it.

For romance or a sedate getaway, the best choice is probably the Taj Exotica, tel: (91-832) 277 1234. This hotel is charmingly designed in authentic Goan style and efficiently serviced, with the rooms offering plenty of privacy and comfort. It's also perched at the edge of the sea, with a wide range of sports activities, and in ambiance bears more resemblance to a posh country club than a hotel.