Antarctica: Travel Desk

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If you're thinking of heading south, you've still got plenty of time for planning before the short Antarctic travel season kicks off in mid-November. Avoid the large cruise lines, because not only are their expeditions more expensive than those on smaller ships but they also don't make regular landfalls on the ice and their insular atmosphere (not to mention bingo and cabaret) keeps you from experiencing the true remoteness of the continent.

Most tourist trips to Antarctica leave from Argentina, but from Asia-Pacific you might want to make your way via Christchurch, New Zealand, where prominent tour operators include Heritage Expeditions, tel: (643) 338 9944, and the Adventure Travel Company, tel: (643) 379 7134. Meanwhile, Adventure Associates, tel: (612) 9389 7466, organizes departures from Tasmania. For a three-week cruise, expect to pay at least $12,000 a head in a triple cabin or $20,000 for a suite. Also bear in mind that reaching Antarctica from Australasia takes about four days, as opposed to two from Argentina.

Despite most travelers' visions of frostbite and blizzards, a trip to Antarctica in the modern age is perfectly tolerable. Most of the Russian vessels that dominate Antarctic travel were originally built for scientific purposes, but they can surprise with amenities such as saunas, bars and libraries. Days on board are broken up with excursions on shore and lectures on topics such as Antarctica's environment.

However sturdy the boats might be, crossing the Drake Passage makes even the saltiest sailor turn green. Seasick pills are therefore mandatory. Along the coast, Antarctic summers might feel warmer than some Northern Hemisphere winters, but serious cold-weather clothing, like skiwear, is still required. Other essential items to bring with you include plenty of sunscreen (the ozone hole over the continent makes UV radiation there extremely strong) and more film than you think you'll ever need.