Detour: Barfly

If you can't get along to the Yanjing brewery, no problem. Beijing's entertainment scene has grown exponentially in recent years, and there are plenty of places to enjoy an ale.

The draught beer often tastes a little flat at the capital's boho-and-backpack mecca, the Pass By, tel: (86-10) 8403 8004. But what it lacks in keg care, it more than makes up for in setting and service. Nestled in a lane off Ping'an Dadao near the central lakes, the intimate courtyard bar and café offers a smoke-free wing, a carpeted loft and a sunny patio. The owner's pet pig makes the rounds between the Tibetan-chic décor with a knowing smirk on its snout.

Meanwhile, though the Hidden Tree, tel: (86-10) 6509 3642, is on bustling Nan Sanlitun, you're safe from tourists here. Its intimate patio also shields patrons from jumpsuited beer-promotion gals, DVD sellers, and teens tying one on before a club. Fresh draught European imports such as Hoegaarden and Duvel fill the thick beer menu—perfect for washing down the Hidden Tree's wood-fired pizza.

Over in the University District, check out Space for Information, tel: (86-10) 6279 1280. You can carry your beer into the screening room for free shows of classics and art films at this student hangout. A mixed crowd of Chinese and foreigners fill the large tables and leaf through the shelves of books. Frequent talks by writers and filmmakers make this cozy, wood-floored nook a tiny slice of Harvard Square in Beijing.

Finally, get primitive at Banpo Beer Hut, tel: (86-10) 6525 5583, the little grotto that can. Named for the Neolithic settlement outside Xi'an, this underground pub on central Wangfujing Street is so bad it's great. Sip a Tsingtao on the heated platform beds, necessitated by the chilly air-con. The friendly staff is in on the joke, hyping the primordial kitsch while urging you into the karaoke cave. Chest thumping accepted; hair pulling discouraged.

1. Why McCain Picked Palin
2. McCain's Prickly TIME Interview
3. The Palin Pick: Bold or Disastrous?
4. McCain's Surprise Pick: Sarah Palin
5. Klein: Obama's Speech 'Very Tough'
6. Obama's Risky Stadium Gig
7. Exclusive Poll: Obama's Swing Leads
8. Is McCain Overplaying the POW Card?
9. What Bush Taught McCain
10. Clinton Builds a Bridge to Obama