Ecotourism Without Tears

Tic

k off any of the following if you've done them on holiday: a) winced at the number of fluffy bathrobes you got through; b) realized that the barman's weekly wage wouldn't pay for one of the many pina coladas you've just drained; c) wished you could meet a local, other than that barman; d) thought the beach was lovely—if only they hadn't stuck an unsightly hotel on it.

If you checked off on all four, then join the rest of us. But though we all like to pay lip service to "sustainable tourism"—tourism ventures that emphasize ecology, ensure that local communities managing these projects receive profits directly, and minimize sociocultural impact—we're often reluctant to try it. Maybe it's because we don't want to spend our hard-earned breaks living on roots and grubs while staying in a tribal hut.

Realizing that the prefix "eco" has unfavorable connotations to travelers more used to 24-hour room service and pay-TV, a number of operators are trying to take the pain out of political correctness. As a result, you can now vacation responsibly anywhere from an idyllic beach in the Maldives (indirectly contributing $1 per night to a turtle project) to rural Ireland (spending your spare time working on river restoration). If you want a holiday that helps the local community and you want to spend it in relative ease, check these places out:

Chumbe Island, Zanzibar (chumbeisland.com) Proof that it's possible to soothe both your senses and conscience, this marine park offers boutique accommodation, solar-powered showers and dazzling underwater life. Winner of the 2001 Green Hotelier and Restaurateur Environmental Award.

Cordillera Blanca, Peru (footlooseadventure.co.uk) Action-weary tourists can let their llamas do the walking—4,500 m up in the Andes, that is—while funding deserving local projects through Footloose Adventure Travel. The travel agency also accepts donations for Climate Care Trust, an organization that plants carbon-busting trees for every mile you've flown.

Mamanuca Island, Fiji (coralcay.org) Explore the South Pacific's many pelagic pleasures while checking on the health of coral reefs. Marine conservation volunteers from around the world are your dive buddies; expeditions, from two weeks upward, depart year-round.

Jordan (tribes.co.uk) After taking in the country's top sights—cliff-clinging Petra, the Roman city of Jerash, sand-worn desert castles and the Red Sea—you can tent down (surprisingly comfortably) with nomadic Bedouins and sleep well, knowing that 75% of the profits from the camping are channeled back to the host nation.

Luang Nam Tha, Laos (www.responsibletravel.com) If you feel the urge to leave the hotel poolside and hack through tropical jungle, this is for you. The UNESCO-NTA Nam Ha Ecotourism Project organizes tribal treks that have minimal impact on the environment. Stewarding a 222,400-hectare area are the residents of 25 villages, trained to manage tourism and the territory's rich ecoresources.