Give Me SoMa

Until 20 years ago, Vancouver's Main Street—an artery running from Chinatown toward South Vancouver—marked the boundary between the city's smarter West Side and the rough-and-ready section known as East Van. How times have changed. Successive waves of artists, media types and other loft dwellers kicked off a gradual process of gentrification; the day young families started infiltrating its neighborhoods, East Van's journey to respectability was complete. One knock-on effect of this has been the tidying up of Main Street itself. Cafés and galleries have mushroomed there; so have boutiques—particularly around 21st and Main. Now branded a "fashion district" by local style mavens, south Main, or "SoMa," is just what the shopping doctor ordered. Bound for Vancouver and looking for a little Canadian chic? Here's a selection of our favorite SoMa outlets:

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TWIGG & HOTTIE Several doors down from the Barefoot Contessa is this modish emporium, established two years ago by Canadian designers Glencora Twigg and Christine Hotton. You'll find many of the country's trendiest labels there, including Peel (skirts printed with cartographic motifs), and punk-inspired jewelry by Whore to the Core. Tel: (1-604) 879 8595; twiggandhottie.com.

EUGENE CHOO Both men's and women's wear are offered at this bright and airy clothing store, which brother and sister Kildare and Fiona Curtis have ran for nine years. But who is Eugene Choo? "I went to primary school with him," says Kildare. "I'm hooked on the idea that he might visit Vancouver, drive past and see his name in lights." Tel: (1-604) 873 8874; eugenechoo.com.

SMOKING LILY Once a scarf-making business in Victoria, British Columbia's second city, Smoking Lily now has a much wider range, embracing clothes, accessories and linen. Many items retain the label's signature plant and insect prints. Tel: (1-604) 873 5459; smokinglily.com.