Not Too Far From Shore

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Rome is just 30 km from the Mediterranean, but if you believed most guidebooks, you'd think it was 300 — it's hard to find a tip for a great seafood restaurant in the Italian capital. But a Roman friend told me about Il Tempio di Iside shortly after it opened in 1999 near the Coliseum, and it has become a can't-miss stop on my dining itinerary with visiting friends and family.

After a taste of complimentary Prosecco, Italy's gently sparkling white wine, Tempio's affable owner Francesco Tripodi arrives at the table to list the evening's market-fresh offerings in rapid-fire, Calabrian-accented Italian. When it's clear that diners haven't understood a word, he grins and intones: "Do … You … Like … Fish?" Respond with a simple "Si!" and you're in for the best seafood meal of your life.

The antipasto course is an unmatched sampling of underwater delights. There's carpaccio of swordfish, salmon or sea bass, flavored with olive oil, parsley and whole red peppercorn; steamed clams; sautéed mussels; lightly breaded and baked scallops on the half-shell; batter-fried jumbo shrimp and squash flower; and lightly fried fish. There are also delectable crustaceans — like the long and narrow clamlike canolicchi, a shellfish native to the warm Mediterranean waters.

Then it's on to my favorite second course: oven-baked turbot with olive oil and potatoes. The simple seasoning, right touch of salt and high temperature ensure that the fish comes steaming out of the oven to rest with perfect levity on the tongue. For dessert, I go for the mini chocolate cake served warm with a soft center or a smooth lemon sorbet. By the end of the meal, you will have confirmed your response to Francesco's opening query: yes, I like fish — more than ever. €35-40 per person, Via P. Verri 11, tel: (39-06) 7004741, closed Sunday.