In the Pink

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For decades, rosé has been scorned as the drink of wine illiterates. Universally, if unfairly, identified with cheap, rounded bottles of Mateus Rosé (apparently a favorite tipple of Saddam Hussein), it's now making a comeback in slick, new guises as winemakers attempt to second-guess a fickle market. Pinot Noir is no longer trendy, Riesling had a short-lived spell of cachet—rosé could be the new flavor of the month. Numbers from the Côtes du Provence region in France, one of the world's main rosé-producing areas, show that exports are on a steady annual increase.

The color of rosé...