Asia's Look for 2004

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If the Asian fashion landscape for 2004 can be summed up in one word, it would be "contrast" — bracing combinations of color and fabric, tradition and innovation. A recent fashion week in Hong Kong saw one model strutting down the catwalk in a sheer hot pink scarf with gray suit lapels stitched on to form a faux collar (a design by And Then ...); another in a knit cap festooned with baby toys (Aeju); and a third in a thick knit-wool skirt with a filmy, bright turquoise silk top (Tell U What).

While most of the madness will stay on the runway, fashionistas are injecting a little fun and flair into their ready-to-wear lines, too. Hong Kong-based designer Ranee Kok Chui Wah added feathers and a long, sassy gold sash to her cheongsams, or traditional Chinese dresses; Malaysia's Beatrice Looi applied the country's batik dyeing method to her beaded and sequined silk organza formal wear; and Korean label Kang Ki Ok Urban Look painted the fiery phoenix, once deemed appropriate only for royalty, on the princess-seamed back of a denim dress. Urban Look design director Kwan Jung Ran says the idea is to show that beauty hides in the least obvious places. "Denim is vintage, casual and popular. We added extravagant items, such as crystals and traditional patterns, to show that even denim can change from the most inexpensive clothing into the most luxurious garment." Already, international marketers are predicting that the new contrast look will make a killing. French label TantPourElle, which this year added a riot of color and texture to its normally simple, monotone line — including a multihued pinstripe button-down shirt with a sheer black chiffon back — expects to see a big payoff, especially in China. "Chinese like colors and more fancy details," explains the label's marketing director, Priscilla Chow, who emphasizes her point by rubbing her fingers against the rough lacy trim of one of its soft polyester dresses. "They are willing to pay more for their clothes now — but they want their money's worth." Given the painstaking handiwork behind the latest collections, it looks as if they're going to get it.