Paired Up

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While you might enjoy champagne, you probably never think to drink it with hairy crab. But gourmands are discovering the benefits of matching bubbly with Asian cuisine. Experts say the region's light cooking styles go perfectly with sparkling wines. Lau Chi Sun, founder of the Chinese magazine Wine Now, says the match "is very good because champagne's acidity helps to clean the palate."

Such is the success of this effervescent pairing that the houses of Dom Perignon, Krug, Moët and Veuve Clicquot all trumpet its merits. Veuve even promotes its 1996 Rich Reserve as a companion for dim sum. "The shrimp dumpling is a mirror of the Rich Reserve," says Bruno Yvon, Hong Kong-based business manager of the Clicquot Group. "Both are a mix of crisp and aromatic textures enveloped in a soft richness."

Not all Asian fare benefits from bubbles. Dishes shouldn't be too spicy, oily or sweet, and you should match the food's complexity with that of the beverage. On that score, it's helpful to know that vintages are more complex than nonvintages and that all wines, like most people, grow more complex with age. Now that you've opened up your options, go celebrate by opening a bottle of your favorite champagne.