Italy Polishes a Gem

There's no such thing as a wrong turn in Genoa; one of the great pleasures of the place is getting lost amid the city's serpentine streets and undulating hillside avenues. But some roads should be sought out, notably Via Garibaldi, a majestic stretch of cobblestone flanked by 16th century villas just above the old port. One palace, Palazzo Tursi, has been the site of City Hall since 1848; others (Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianco) have been turned into museums. When this city of 700,000 was picked—along with Lille, France—to be European Capital of Culture for 2004, the Italian government poured in $40 million for more than 100 special events from jazz concerts to history classes. And Via Garibaldi, which housed the noble families of what was once one of Europe's richest cities, has undergone a multimillion-euro face-lift that would make Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi proud. Façades have been scrubbed and frescoes restored to their original splendor, quaint courtyards and sweeping staircases now shine anew, streetlights have been added to enhance the architectural features, and busts and statues have been tucked into the palaces' endless niches. Get lost here and feel yourself spinning back to an age of true opulence. And when hunger interrupts your fantasia, go to Le Cantine Squarciafico and eat pasta with pesto or squid-filled ravioli with shrimp ragù. Then you'll really think you're dreaming.