Essential Steps

There's an old saying in Portugal: "Porto works, Lisbon plays and Braga prays." The largest city in the northwest Minho province, Braga is the religious center of the country, with more than 300 churches in and around the city — about one for every 600 people. One must-see church is the Sé cathedral; a 12th century masterpiece that started out as Romanesque but was added to by every Bishop of Braga, making it a living architectural lesson, with Gothic arches alongside Baroque windows. Don't miss the cathedral's museum, which contains everything from a Hispano-Arab casket in silver from the 10th century to a pair of platform shoes belonging to a vertically challenged bishop.

The area's biggest attraction is the Bom Jesus Sanctuary, 3 km east of town. It is a spectacular 19th century monument standing on a high wooded hill with views of the Soajo Mountains and the Atlantic. If you're fit, climb its monumental Baroque staircase; otherwise take the 19th century water-powered elevator. At the top, treat yourself to the view from the excellent restaurant at the Hotel do Elevador. Try Arroz de Pato à Moda do Minho (duck with rice). There are also seclude footpaths, grottoes, a tennis court and a lake with boats for hire.

The hillside is covered with beautiful things: the main staircase and a Pelican fountain have graceful statues of biblical figures. Nearby is the Stairway of Virtues (with figures of Faith, Hope and Charity); fountains representing the senses of taste, smell, hearing and sight; and the equestrian statue of Longuinhos, which represents a man who had a daughter he couldn't marry off. The statue has become an object of superstition — it is believed that if a girl walks around the statue three times, she will be married. Could be worth a try.