Leiria

The Euro 2004 tournament will be played in eight great Portuguese cities. Here's a guide to some of their delights:

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The city of Leiria in the lower Beira region has long been known for nurturing fragile forms. In 1254 it was the site of the first Portuguese cortes (parliament) to include commoners. But for the past two centuries or so, Leiria (pop. 50,000) has been best known for its fine, handblown glassware, made in the factories of nearby Marinha Grande. The industry is a legacy of Portugal's maritime ambitions: 700 years ago, the monarchy ordered the planting of 12,000 hectares of forest to provide timber for ships and control shifting coastal sands. Those two raw materials attracted glassmakers in the 18th century; the region hasn't looked back since.

Today Leiria produces 45,000 tons of glassware annually, and the local Glass Museum has a permanent exhibition on the techniques used. Pick up a Glass Route "passport" from local tourist offices for admission to the museum and factories. If you ask nicely, you might even get to try a spot of glassblowing for yourself.

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