Mount Merlot?

After falling in love with a plot of very rocky soil, Cristophe Baron moved from the Champagne region of France to Walla Walla, Wash. (home of the sweet onion), in 1993. Today, as the state's only biodynamic (uberorganic) winemaker, he is producing plump, cultworthy Syrah, the noble grape of the northern Rhone, under his label, Cayuse.

Baron is but one of a pioneering crop of winemakers who have been stretching their trade across the eastern part of Washington. The state built its wine reputation on Bordeaux-like blends, using Merlot and Cabernet.

To sample for yourself, make the four-hour drive from Seattle to Walla Walla. The road laces through the spectacular Cascades, past cloud-ensconced Mount Rainier, and then the land rounds out into desert-like hills that look as if they were covered by fuzzy wool. About 210 miles from Seattle is the Red Mountain area and the impressive Hedges Cellars winery. Don't leave the region without sipping the hard-to-find wines of Hightower Cellars, just down the road from Hedges.

Walla Walla is abuzz with growth. There's a touch of theater, art galleries and about 40 wineries. Start your tour at Grapefields Wine Bar & Cafe, where the local winemakers gather and gab. Spend time there and soak up the recommendations — it's the place to mix and get the scoop on the hottest wines, both new and venerable. If you leave Walla Walla thinking you have just stumbled onto the next big wine thing, you just might be right.