Pieces of Paradise

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As much fun as Athens can be, you won't want to leave Greece without looking in on some of its beautiful islands. But you don't have to jostle with the crowds on Mykonos, Santorini, Crete and all those other tourist magnets. Here are three lesser-known getaways:

AGISTRI Once a haven for Albanian refugees fleeing Serbian expansion in the 14th century, this tiny island won fame in the 1980s when its lovely pebbled beach, Halikiada, became a favorite haunt for nudists. Today even the most buttoned-down visitors get hooked on Agistri's idyllic, unspoiled beauty. The island is just a two-hour ferry ride from the port of Piraeus. A favorite place to stay is the Agistri Club Hotel, tel: (30-229) 709 1242.

KOUFONISSIA Miss the boat and you may have to spend another couple of days in paradise. Small, rugged and surrounded by sea-lashed rocks, Ano and Kato Koufonissia are part of the Cyclades, a tiny cluster of islands beloved by the Greeks but often left off tourist itineraries. Separated by a slim waterway from its sister island, Kato Koufonissi is virtually uninhabited. But the cognoscenti swear by its crystal-clear waters, coarse sand, craggy coves and the single taverna that serves up savory Greek dishes. Blue Star Ferries run trips to Ano Koufonissi three times a week from Piraeus. Don't expect luxurious accommodation on the island, but there are clean and quaint pensions like Akrogiali, tel: (30-228) 507 1685, near the harbor.

PORTO KATSIKI, LEFKADA According to ancient Greek lore, unrequited lovers leapt from the cliffs of Porto Katsiki to die in the turquoise waters below. These days visitors prefer to hike down the 80 steep and narrow steps carved into the rock to reach the sandy beach. The fishing villages of Nidri (which some claim to be the home of Homer's Odysseus) and Vassiliki are a short taxi-boat ride away. Linked by bridge to the mainland, Lefkada can easily be reached by car or bus. You can also fly from Athens to Preveza airport, located just across the water from the island.